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Here I lucked out; while in Amsterdam they were holding a days-long celebration of Dutch writing and culture, all around the Museum square. In the surrounding streets, hundreds of stalls of Dutch publishers held millions of books - and from the teeming crowds, it was obvious that they did not lack for patrons. And each night, five or more public stages hosted musicians playing everything from opera to Caribbean drums to jazz guitar to 70's disco to pop-schlock - all for free. The Dutch maturity about alcohol was in full evidence: young students with backpacks full of Heineken wandered the crowds, dispensing good beer at cheap prices to any who wanted it - and in the entire time I was there, I didn't see *one* unpleasant incident, or mean drunk. As you might imagine, I had an excellent time.
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